Escrito por: José Miguel Nunes Guilherme Fonseca, Surfista do PPSC – Peniche Surfing Clube, num “clip” da Rip Curl, na sua primeira experiência no Hawaii, a meca do surf mundial. Surfing is like nothing else.; It's sunburnt backs & bloodshot eyes.; It's paddling back out for one more, 10 times.; Surfing is melting wax & burning sand.; It's warm water, salt water, and a dry mouth.; It's calling a mate into the best wave of the morning.; Surfing is tubes & turns & flying down the line.; It's head-dips & chop-hops, hoots & high-fives.; It's three fins and one fin, two fins and none.; Surfing is being local yet still searching.; It's road-trips, boarding passes & rocking boats.; It's a tropical reef & a track through the dunes.; Surfing is the first view of the ocean every morning.; Surfing is who we are... Fonte/Autor: Rip Curl
1 Comentário
14/7/2015 04:30:26
Surfing is being local yet still searching.; It's road-trips, boarding passes & rocking boats.; It's a tropical reef & a track through the dunes.; Surfing is the first view of the ocean every morning.;
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